Frequently Asked Questions
Answers to the questions we’re asked most often about booking, pricing, and the electrical, plumbing, painting and decoration, appliance installation, and property maintenance work we carry out across East & South-East London.
East & South-East London
coverage
7am – 5pm
Mon–Fri
£80 minimum
call-out (first hour)
Browse FAQ Categories
Booking, Pricing & Coverage
Booking, pricing, hours & our areas
Electrical
Wiring, faults, repairs & safety
Plumbing
Leaks, installations & pipework
Painting & Decoration
Paint, prep, colours & finishing
Appliance Installation
Washing machines, connections & more
Property Maintenance
Ongoing upkeep & small works
Heating
Boilers, radiators & heating systems
Drainage
Blocked drains, odours & pipes
Carpentry
Doors, flooring, shelving & more
1. Booking, Pricing and Coverage
Questions about our hours, call-out fee, pricing and how to book a job with us.
We provide services across East and South-East London, including Canary Wharf & E14, Stratford & E15, Bow & E3, Canning Town & E16, Greenwich & SE10, Woolwich & SE18, and Barking & IG11. If you’re unsure whether your address falls within our coverage, contact us directly and we’ll confirm.
Our standard working hours are 7am to 5pm, Monday to Friday. Out-of-hours emergency call-outs are also available, priced differently from standard-hours work.
Yes. Emergency call-outs outside our standard hours are available, though pricing differs from a standard-hours visit, including a different minimum call-out price. Contact us directly to discuss an urgent issue.
The documented minimum call-out is £80 for the first hour. Final pricing depends on the work required, materials, access, and whether the job falls within standard or out-of-hours attendance.
Contact us by phone, email or WhatsApp with a description of the job, your address, and your preferred timing. We’ll confirm availability and next steps from there.
This depends on the job. For some work we can source materials as part of the quote; for others, you may prefer to supply specific fittings, paint or appliances yourself. Confirm this when you book so it’s factored into the price.
2. Electrical
Everything you need to know about electrical faults, repairs and safety.
Look for clear communication, a straightforward explanation of the fault and the proposed fix, and transparent pricing before work begins. A reliable electrician should be willing to explain what they’ve found and why a particular repair or replacement is needed, rather than just quoting a price.
Not usually. A cut, snapped or exposed wire can present a shock or fire risk, and safe repair depends on correctly identifying the cable type, its rating, and whether it’s still live. Isolate the power at the consumer unit if it’s safe to do so, avoid touching exposed conductors, and arrange a professional assessment rather than attempting a permanent fix yourself.
Yes, in some circumstances. Exposed conductors, poor-quality temporary repairs (such as taping a live cable) or damaged insulation can create a fire risk, particularly where the cable is under load or in contact with flammable material. Treat any exposed wiring as a fault requiring assessment rather than something to patch and ignore.
Tape may cover an exposed cable temporarily, but it isn’t a proper repair for household wiring. It doesn’t restore the cable’s original insulation rating or address why the damage happened. Where a fault involves fixed household wiring rather than a low-voltage appliance lead, a proper repair or cable replacement is the safer option.
Electrical repair covers fixing existing wiring, sockets, switches, lighting circuits, consumer units and fixed appliances that have developed a fault, rather than installing something new. Common examples include tripping circuits, non-working sockets, flickering lights and damaged cabling.
Any of the following are worth having assessed promptly: a circuit that repeatedly trips, warm or discoloured sockets and switches, a burning smell near an outlet, flickering that isn’t linked to the bulb itself, or any exposed or damaged cable. These can indicate an underlying fault rather than a one-off issue.
This varies with the fault, how accessible the wiring is, and whether the issue is diagnosed on arrival or needs further investigation. Our documented minimum call-out is £80 for the first hour, with the final price depending on parts and time required.
3. Plumbing
Leak advice, installations and understanding your plumbing system.
A household plumbing system moves clean water in through supply pipes to taps, appliances and the hot water system, and carries waste water out through a separate network of drainage pipes to the sewer. Most homes also have a stopcock to shut off the water supply in an emergency, which is worth locating in advance.
A plumbing installation typically involves running or extending pipework to a new fixture (such as a sink, toilet, washing machine or outdoor tap), connecting it correctly to the supply and drainage system, and testing for leaks and correct pressure before the job is signed off. The exact work depends on whether pipework already exists nearby.
If you can safely access it, turn off the water at the stopcock to limit further damage, and switch off any nearby electrics if water is near sockets or fittings. Avoid attempting to cut into pipework yourself, as this can turn a contained leak into a larger one. Contact us to arrange an assessment.
It’s possible for very minor jobs, but incorrect pipework, poor jointing or the wrong pipe grade can lead to leaks, pressure problems or, in the case of gas-adjacent work, serious safety risks. For anything beyond a straightforward fitting swap, a professional installation avoids costly rework later.
A repair addresses an existing fault, such as a leak, blockage or worn fitting, on plumbing that’s already in place. An installation involves fitting new pipework or a new fixture where none previously existed, or replacing an existing system entirely. The two often overlap, for example when a repair reveals that older pipework needs replacing rather than patching.
This depends heavily on the scope: extending pipework a short distance to a new fixture is a different job to rerouting supply or waste pipes through a property. Our documented minimum call-out is £80 for the first hour, with the total cost depending on materials, access and the amount of pipework involved.
4. Painting and Decoration
Paint, preparation, colours and the difference between painting and decorating.
Without the original tin or a record of the product code, matching an existing wall colour exactly usually means taking a small, unpainted-edge sample (such as behind a socket plate or in a cupboard) to a paint supplier for colour matching, since paint fades and changes slightly with light exposure over time. A professional decorator can also advise on the closest practical match before repainting.
The right choice depends on the room’s use, light levels and finish requirements: kitchens and bathrooms benefit from a wipeable, moisture-resistant finish, while a matt finish often suits low-traffic rooms like bedrooms. Consider how the colour will look under the room’s actual lighting, not just on a colour chart, before committing to a large area.
Paints can generally be mixed within reason, but matching an exact shade across different brands is rarely perfect, since manufacturers use different colour formulas even for similarly named shades. If continuity matters, such as touching up an existing wall, it’s safer to use the original brand and product line where possible.
Yes, in most cases. Filling cracks or holes, sanding rough patches, removing flaking old paint and applying an appropriate primer or undercoat where the surface or colour change requires it all affect how well the final coat looks and lasts. Skipping preparation is one of the most common reasons a paint job looks patchy or wears unevenly.
This depends on the room’s size, the number of coats needed, how much preparation the walls require, and whether trim, ceilings or woodwork are also being done. A straightforward single room with walls already in good condition takes considerably less time than one needing repairs, colour correction or detailed trim work.
Painting typically refers to applying paint to walls, ceilings or woodwork. Decorating is broader and can include wallpapering, filling and preparing surfaces, fitting coving or trim, and general finishing work alongside the paintwork itself. Which you need depends on the current state of the room and the finish you’re after.
5. Appliance Installation
Washing machines, connections, fitting into space and more.
It’s possible if you’re comfortable connecting the water supply, drainage hose and electrics correctly and safely, but incorrect installation is a common cause of leaks, drainage problems and, in some cases, electrical faults. If you’re not confident checking the hose connections, the standpipe height and the appliance is level and earthed properly, a professional installation removes that risk.
Not always, but the plumbing connection (supply hose, waste connection and any isolation valve) needs to be done correctly to avoid leaks, and the electrical connection needs to be safe. Where a new supply point or drainage connection is needed, rather than a straightforward swap, professional installation is generally worthwhile.
A straightforward swap, replacing an old machine with a new one on the same connections, is usually completed within an hour or so. It takes longer where new plumbing or an electrical point is needed, where access is tight, or where the old machine’s connections need adapting to fit the new appliance.
Not without the right infrastructure. A washing machine needs a cold water supply, a suitable drainage connection (either a standpipe or connection to existing waste pipework) and a nearby electrical socket. Installing one away from existing plumbing usually means extending pipework first, which adds to the cost and time involved.
This typically means connecting the supply hose to an isolation valve, securing the waste hose to a standpipe or drain connection at the correct height to prevent siphoning or backflow, checking the appliance is level, and confirming a safe, properly earthed electrical connection. Each step affects whether the appliance drains, fills and runs correctly.
Measure the appliance and the available space carefully before delivery, including door clearance and any bend needed in the supply and waste hoses, since integrated or tight spaces often leave little room to manoeuvre. Where an appliance needs to go into a fitted kitchen space, it’s worth confirming hose and cable routing in advance to avoid a last-minute reshuffle.
6. Property Maintenance
Ongoing upkeep, small works and services for landlords and agents.
Property maintenance covers the ongoing repairs, checks and small works needed to keep a property safe, functional and in good condition, as distinct from a one-off renovation or improvement project. For residential and rental properties, this typically spans minor electrical, plumbing, decorating and general repair work as issues arise or on a scheduled basis.
It commonly includes general repairs (such as fixing fixtures, minor plumbing and electrical faults), redecoration between tenancies, appliance servicing or replacement, and addressing wear and tear before it becomes a larger issue. The exact scope depends on the property type and whether it’s owner-occupied, let, or managed on behalf of a landlord.
A repair fixes a specific fault once it’s occurred, such as a leaking tap or a broken light fitting. Maintenance is the ongoing process of checking, servicing and addressing minor issues before they become bigger repairs, which is particularly relevant for landlords and letting agents managing multiple properties.
This depends on the property, its age, and tenancy turnover, but many landlords schedule a general check between tenancies alongside addressing issues as tenants report them. Regularly maintained properties tend to need fewer emergency call-outs, since small issues are caught before they escalate.
Yes. Alongside residential customers, our documented client base includes landlords, letting agents, housing associations, commercial property managers, offices, retail and other property decision-makers who need reliable electrical, plumbing, painting and appliance work carried out.
This depends on what’s been reported or scheduled, but a visit might cover checking and fixing minor electrical or plumbing issues, addressing general wear and tear, or carrying out small decorating touch-ups.
7. Heating
Boilers, radiators, noises, servicing and heating problems.
A repair fixes a specific fault, such as no hot water, a leaking radiator or a boiler that won’t fire up. A service is a routine check carried out to catch small issues before they become faults and to keep the system running efficiently. Both matter, but they solve different problems.
A radiator that’s cold at the top usually has trapped air and needs bleeding. One that’s cold at the bottom, or cold in patches, often has a build-up of sludge or debris inside, which may need a power flush rather than just bleeding. The pattern of where it’s cold is a useful clue, though a proper diagnosis needs an inspection.
This is commonly caused by trapped air, a build-up of limescale or sludge, or a pump running at the wrong pressure. On its own it isn’t usually an emergency, but persistent noise is worth having checked, since the underlying cause can reduce efficiency and put extra strain on the system over time.
Most heating systems benefit from an annual check before the colder months, which helps catch small issues, such as low pressure or a struggling pump, before they turn into a breakdown.
Bleeding a radiator is a routine task most people can do with a radiator key, by slowly opening the valve until air stops hissing and water begins to appear, then closing it again. If you’re not confident, or if bleeding doesn’t resolve the cold-spot issue, it’s worth having it looked at rather than repeatedly bleeding the same radiator.
Check that the thermostat, timer and boiler pressure are all within normal range first, since a simple setting or low-pressure issue is often the cause. If those look fine and there’s still no heating or hot water, particularly in cold weather, treat it as something to get assessed promptly rather than left.
Simple tasks like bleeding a radiator or checking boiler pressure are generally safe. Anything involving the boiler’s internal components, gas connections or the wider heating circuit should be left to a qualified professional, since incorrect work on a heating system can create safety risks as well as further damage.
8. Drainage
Blocked drains, smells, causes and professional clearing.
Common causes include a build-up of grease and food waste in kitchen drains, hair and soap residue in bathroom drains, and, outdoors, leaves, silt or tree roots affecting external drainage. The right fix depends on where the blockage is and what’s causing it, which isn’t always obvious from the symptoms alone.
A slow-draining sink or a gurgling toilet is usually a straightforward blockage. Multiple drains backing up at once, bad smells from more than one fixture, or water appearing where it shouldn’t (such as around an outside gully) can point to a larger issue further down the system, which is worth having assessed rather than treated as a one-off blockage.
Minor blockages can sometimes be cleared with a plunger or a drain rod on an accessible outdoor gully. Repeated blockages, blockages you can’t reach, or ones that don’t clear with basic methods are better left to a professional, since incorrect rodding or the wrong chemical drain cleaner can damage pipework or push the blockage further down the line.
They can help with very minor blockages, but frequent use can damage certain pipe materials and seals over time, and they don’t address the underlying cause if blockages keep recurring. If a drain blocks repeatedly, that’s usually a sign worth investigating rather than continuing to treat with chemicals.
This can be caused by a dry trap (the U-bend under a sink or drain, which should hold water to block sewer gas), a partial blockage further down the pipe, or a damaged seal somewhere in the system. Running water through an unused drain regularly can prevent the trap from drying out in the first place.
Depending on the blockage, this can involve manual rodding, a drain camera to locate the exact issue, or jetting to clear more stubborn build-up. The right method depends on where the blockage is and what’s causing it, which is usually confirmed once the drain has been inspected.
9. Carpentry
Doors, flooring, shelving, cupboards and general carpentry work.
This typically includes tasks such as fitting or repairing skirting boards, doors, door frames, shelving, flooring and general trim work, along with furniture assembly and small fixed-joinery repairs.
Often, yes. A door that sticks or doesn’t close properly can sometimes be caused by hinge wear, a shift in the frame, or humidity affecting the wood, and adjusting the hinges or trimming the door slightly can resolve it. Whether repair or replacement is the better option depends on the extent of the damage.
Isolated issues, such as a squeaking board, a small area of water damage or a loose section, can usually be repaired without replacing the whole floor. Widespread warping, extensive water damage or flooring that’s worn evenly throughout its life is more likely to need full replacement rather than a patch repair.
It depends on the wall type and what’s being fixed to it. Solid masonry walls generally hold more weight securely than stud or plasterboard walls, where fixings need to land on a stud or use appropriate cavity fixings rated for the load. Getting this wrong is a common cause of shelving or fittings coming loose later.
Confirm all parts and fixings are present, decide where the furniture will go before assembly (since some pieces are easier to build in place), and flag any wall-fixing requirements, such as anti-tip brackets for tall units, particularly where children or pets are in the home.
This depends on the scope and whether it affects the property’s structure. Straightforward internal stud walls are often within general carpentry scope, but anything load-bearing or affecting the building’s structure needs proper assessment first.
Still have a question?
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Areas We Cover
See where we operate
Electrical Services
Electrical faults, repairs & more
Plumbing Services
Leaks, installations & pipework
Painting & Decoration
Painting, decorating & finishing
Appliance Installation
Washing machines & appliances
Heating Services
Boilers, radiators & heating
Drainage Services
Blocked drains & plumbing
Carpentry Services
Doors, flooring, shelving & more
Property Maintenance
Ongoing upkeep & small works