A washer dryer connects in much the same way as a washing machine: a cold water supply, a waste and a socket. The difference is the drying half. It produces heat and moisture inside a sealed cabinet, draws a heavy electrical load for long periods while it dries, and on many models uses water during the drying cycle as well as the wash. Washer dryer installation has to account for all of that, especially when the machine is going behind a kitchen door.
Voltify Contractors installs freestanding and integrated washer dryers in homes and rented properties across East and South-East London, including Canary Wharf, Stratford, Bow, Canning Town, Greenwich, Woolwich and Barking, as part of our appliance installation service. The basic connection steps — removing transit bolts, fitting the hoses and levelling the machine — are the same as for a standard washer and are explained on our washing machine installation page. This page concentrates on what is different about a combined machine.
Washer Dryer or a Separate Washer and Tumble Dryer?
If the machine hasn’t been bought yet, the trade-off is worth understanding before anything is installed:
| Consideration | Washer dryer | Washing machine + tumble dryer |
|---|---|---|
| Space | One appliance space | Two spaces, or one stacked column |
| Drying load | The drying capacity is usually smaller than the wash capacity, so a full wash may need drying in two batches | The dryer drum is sized to take a full wash load |
| Washing while drying | Not possible — there is only one drum | Possible |
| Water use | Many models use water during drying to condense the steam | Only the washing machine uses water |
| Installation | One water, waste and power connection | Two appliances; a vented dryer also needs a route outside |
Neither option is automatically better. A washer dryer suits a small kitchen or a flat with no room for a second appliance, and households that only machine-dry some of their washing. Separate machines suit people who tumble dry most loads. Check the wash and dry capacity figures on the specification, as they are rarely the same. If you go for separate machines but only have one floor space, we can stack the tumble dryer on top of the washing machine using the manufacturer’s stacking kit, which holds the dryer securely so it can’t walk off the washer on spin. A tumble dryer also has its own installation requirements, especially around venting — see our tumble dryer installation page.
Checking the Space Before Delivery
Most freestanding washer dryers are made to fit a standard 600mm kitchen space, but depth varies more than width. Measure the depth the machine needs including its door and the room required behind it for the hoses, and check the height if it is going under a worktop with a low overhang.
A washer dryer also releases warm, moist air into the space around it while drying. In a tight utility cupboard or an enclosed alcove, that air needs somewhere to go, so allow the clearances the manufacturer gives in the installation instructions. It helps to think about access too: the pump filter and any lint filter are usually at the front and need to be reached regularly, so the machine shouldn’t be boxed in by a door or a unit that stops them being opened.
On an upper floor or in a flat above another property, a loaded washer dryer is heavy and vibrates on spin. A solid, level floor and properly set feet make a noticeable difference.
Power: Why a Washer Dryer Needs Its Own Socket
During drying, the heater runs at a high load for long periods. Plugging a washer dryer into an extension lead or a multi-way adaptor — often alongside a kettle, microwave or dishwasher — is a common cause of overheated plugs and scorched sockets. It should be plugged directly into its own wall socket, ideally one that can be switched off without pulling the machine out, such as a switched connection above the worktop.
If the nearest socket is behind another appliance, in the wrong place, or already shared, a new one can be added through our socket and switch installation work before the machine goes in.
Water and Waste: The Drying Cycle Still Uses Both
On most condenser washer dryers, the moisture taken out of the clothes is pumped away through the same drain hose used for washing, and many models draw cold water to cool the condenser while they dry. That means the isolating valve must stay open during drying, and the waste has to drain freely. A partly blocked sink trap, or a drain hose set at the wrong height, can stop the machine mid-cycle with an error code rather than causing an obvious leak.
The standpipe and sink-trap rules are the same as for any washing machine. Where a dishwasher shares the same waste, our dishwasher installation page explains how the two connections work together. If there is no valve or waste near the new position, the pipework is added through our plumbing services.
Fitting an Integrated Washer Dryer
An integrated washer dryer sits inside a kitchen housing, hidden behind a door that matches the rest of the units. As well as the water, waste and power, the installation involves fixing the kitchen door to the machine with the hinges and brackets supplied, adjusting it so the gaps line up with the neighbouring doors, and making sure the plinth and housing leave the ventilation space the manufacturer specifies. Drying in an enclosed housing produces more heat than washing, so that airflow matters more than it does for an integrated washing machine.
When one integrated machine replaces another, the new model’s door fixing points don’t always line up with the old ones, so the existing door may need new fixing holes, or a new door may be needed from the kitchen supplier. The general points about housings and door panels are covered on our integrated appliance installation page, and small alterations to plinths or base units can be combined through our handyman and property maintenance service.
Can You Install a Washer Dryer Yourself?
Plenty of people do. A like-for-like freestanding swap is manageable if you are comfortable taking out transit bolts, connecting two hoses and levelling a heavy machine. Start with the manufacturer’s installation guide, and our washing machine installation checklist walks through the same water and waste steps.
It is worth booking an installer when the machine is integrated and the door has to be hung and aligned, when there is no isolating valve or suitable waste nearby, when the socket is shared or awkwardly placed, or when the old machine has left signs of a leak under the units. Those are the jobs where a small mistake shows up weeks later as a swollen base unit or a scorched plug rather than on the day.
Keeping the Drying Side Working After Installation
Most drying problems that appear a few months after installation come down to airflow and lint rather than a fault with the machine:
- Clean the lint filter as often as the manual says — on some models that is after every drying cycle, while others clean the condenser automatically.
- Don’t dry a full wash load in one go if the drying capacity is smaller; overloading leaves clothes damp and makes the cycle run much longer.
- Clear the pump filter at the front from time to time, particularly if the machine starts draining slowly.
- Leave the door and detergent drawer ajar between uses so the drum and seal can dry out.
What Happens When We Install Your Washer Dryer
The visit follows the same order every time, so anything wrong with the supply, the waste or the space shows up before the machine is pushed into place rather than after it.
- Check the space, the floor and the clearances against the manufacturer’s instructions, and confirm the machine will have its own socket.
- Remove the transit bolts and leave them with you, as they are needed if the machine is ever moved.
- Connect the fill hose to the cold isolating valve and set the drain hose in the standpipe or sink trap at the right height.
- Slide the machine into position without kinking either hose, then level it on its feet so it stays still on spin.
- On an integrated machine, fit the kitchen door and line up the gaps with the neighbouring units.
- Run a short wash and a drying cycle, then check the valve, hoses and waste for leaks and confirm the machine drains while it dries.
How the Price Is Worked Out
The documented minimum call-out is £80 for the first hour. A like-for-like freestanding swap with a sound valve, a working waste and a dedicated socket in the right place sits at the simpler end. The cost rises when a door has to be fitted and aligned on an integrated machine, a valve or waste needs replacing or adding, a new socket is required, a housing or plinth has to be altered, or the machine is going into a new position. Parts are not included in the call-out minimum. We can also disconnect the old machine and take it away for disposal, so mention it when you book and it is included in the quote.
To get a clear answer quickly, send the model number of the new washer dryer, a photo of the space, and a photo of the valve, waste and socket behind or beside the old machine. Contact Voltify Contractors to arrange the installation, or check the areas we cover.
