With an integrated appliance, the kitchen is part of the installation. The appliance has to fit a housing built to a particular size, line up with the cabinet doors on either side, carry a door panel that matches the rest of the kitchen, and still have enough air around it to run properly. Most problems with integrated appliance installation come from one of those details rather than from the appliance itself.
Voltify Contractors fits integrated and built-in appliances into existing kitchens across East and South-East London — dishwashers, washing machines, fridges, freezers and fridge freezers, and built-in ovens — as part of our appliance installation service. This page covers what makes built-in models different from freestanding ones, and what to check before you buy. For the power supply and housing checks specific to ovens, see our oven installation page; for the water and waste side of a washer, see installing a washing machine.
Fully Integrated, Semi-Integrated or Built-In?
Retailers use these terms loosely, so it is worth knowing what each one means for the fitting:
| Type | What it means | What it affects |
|---|---|---|
| Fully integrated | Hidden completely behind a kitchen door panel; the controls sit on the top edge of the appliance door | The panel has to be fixed to the appliance door and line up exactly with the doors either side |
| Semi-integrated | Mainly dishwashers; a shorter door panel with the control fascia left visible above it | The visible fascia needs to sit in line with drawer fronts or other units |
| Built-in | The front of the appliance is on show, fitted into a housing unit — ovens, microwaves and some fridges | The housing aperture and ventilation matter more than door alignment |
| Built-under | Fitted under the worktop inside a base unit — such as some ovens, fridges and freezers | The height under the worktop and the plinth height |
Always check the installation diagram for the exact model rather than relying on the product title. It gives the housing dimensions, ventilation requirements and fixing method the appliance was designed for. If you’re still deciding between built-in and freestanding models, our guide to integrated vs freestanding appliances compares what each type asks of your kitchen.
Checking the Housing Before You Order
Most integrated appliances are designed around standard kitchen sizes — 60cm is the usual width for dishwashers, washing machines and built-in ovens, and 45cm slimline models are common for dishwashers — but the exact dimensions vary between manufacturers. Compare the manufacturer’s niche or aperture sizes with your kitchen before ordering:
- Width, height and depth of the opening, measured in more than one place. Older units are not always square, and a few millimetres can decide whether an appliance slides in.
- The gap under the worktop and the plinth height, which affect whether a dishwasher or washing machine will fit underneath and whether the plinth needs trimming.
- For fridges and freezers in a tall housing, the internal height of the housing and which side the door hinges on.
- Space at the back for hoses, cables and the socket or connection point.
If you are replacing an existing integrated appliance, the model number of the old one is very useful. A like-for-like swap in the same size is usually far simpler than changing format — for example, going from a slimline to a full-width dishwasher, or from a built-under fridge to a tall one — which means altering or replacing kitchen units.
Door Panels, Hinges and Alignment
The door panel is what makes an integrated appliance disappear into the kitchen, and it is also where most of the fitting time goes.
Integrated fridges and freezers generally use one of two systems. With a sliding hinge system, the kitchen door hangs on normal cabinet hinges and is joined to the appliance door by a slide, so the two move together. With a fixed door (door-on-door) system, the kitchen door is screwed directly to the appliance door and opens on the appliance’s own hinges. The system has to match the appliance you have bought, and the right system is set out in its instructions.
Integrated dishwashers and washing machines take their panel on the front of the appliance door using a fixing template. On dishwashers, the door springs often need adjusting to suit the weight of the panel; if they are not, a heavy door can drop open or a light one can spring shut. An existing panel can usually be reused if it is the right size and in good condition. A new matching panel normally has to come from the kitchen’s original supplier. The water, waste and electrical side of fitting a dishwasher is covered on our dishwasher installation page.
Ventilation and Heat
Built-in ovens and integrated fridges need the airflow set out in the manufacturer’s instructions, typically a gap at the back of the housing, a vented plinth, or both. If these are blocked, a fridge can run almost constantly and struggle to hold its temperature, and heat can build up around an oven housing.
Above a dishwasher, a steam protection strip is normally fitted to the underside of the worktop. Without it, steam released when the door is opened can gradually swell a laminate or wooden worktop.
Connections Behind the Units
Integrated appliances use the same services as freestanding ones, but they are much harder to reach once the appliance is in, so it is worth getting them right first time:
- Water and waste for dishwashers and washing machines, with the isolation valve reachable from an adjacent cupboard where possible, so the water can be turned off without pulling the appliance out. Where new pipework is needed, it falls under our plumbing services.
- The electrical supply, ideally a socket in a neighbouring cupboard or a switched connection above the worktop, so the appliance can be isolated without removing it. Some built-in ovens are hard-wired and, depending on their rating, may need their own circuit rather than a plug. That is checked against the appliance’s rating and the existing supply before fitting, and any new supply is covered by our electrical services.
- Gas. If a built-in appliance runs on gas, the gas connection must be made by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Mention it when you get in touch so it is clear from the outset which parts of the job are handled separately.
What Can Change the Job
A straightforward replacement can become a bigger job when:
- the housing or carcass is damaged, out of square, or has swollen from an old leak;
- there is no water, waste or electrical connection in the right place;
- the old appliance is fixed in with adhesive or non-standard brackets;
- the new appliance is a different size or format to the old one;
- a worktop, plinth or neighbouring unit needs cutting or altering.
Small adjustments such as trimming a plinth or re-hanging a cabinet door are normally part of fitting. Larger alterations to units are agreed before work starts, and can be combined with other jobs through our handyman and property maintenance service.
What Integrated Appliance Installation Costs
The documented minimum call-out is £80 for the first hour. The total cost depends on how much of the list above applies — a like-for-like swap into an existing housing is quicker than fitting a new appliance format, adding connections, or altering the cabinetry. Parts such as new hoses, valves or brackets are not included in the call-out minimum.
To get an accurate answer, send the model numbers of the old and new appliances, a photo of the housing with the door open, and the measurements of the opening. Get in touch with Voltify Contractors to talk through the installation, or check the areas we cover.
