Whether a wall-mounted TV stays put for years comes down to two things you cannot see once it is hung: what the wall is made of, and whether the bracket and fixings suit it. TV mounting starts there, then deals with the parts you will see every day, such as the height, the viewing angle and where the cables go.
Voltify Contractors mounts TVs on brick, block and plasterboard walls in homes, rental properties and offices across East and South-East London. It is one of the fitting jobs covered by our handyman and property maintenance service, so a soundbar, a floating shelf or a curtain pole in the same room can be fitted on the same visit.
Choosing a Bracket for Your TV and Room
The bracket decides how the screen can move and how far it sits from the wall. Before buying one, check two figures in your TV’s manual: its weight and its VESA pattern, the spacing of the mounting holes on the back. The bracket must be rated for both.
| Bracket type | How it sits | Best suited to |
|---|---|---|
| Fixed (flat) | Close to the wall, no movement | A screen viewed straight on, at a comfortable seated height |
| Tilting | Angles down a few degrees | A screen mounted a little higher than ideal, or reducing glare from a window |
| Full-motion (cantilever) | Pulls out and swivels on an arm | Corner positions, open-plan rooms, or viewing from more than one seat |
Full-motion brackets put far more leverage on the wall when extended, so they need the most secure fixing of the three. If you are unsure which to buy, send a photo of the wall and the TV model before ordering. Our TV mounting checklist lists what to measure and note before you buy a bracket.
What Your Wall Is Made Of Matters Most
Most problems with wall-mounted TVs come from fixings that were right for one wall type and used on another.
Solid brick and block
The most straightforward wall for TV mounting. Heavy-duty masonry fixings hold well, provided the brick or block is sound and the holes are not too close to the edge of a chimney breast or a crumbling mortar joint.
Plasterboard on timber or metal studs
Plasterboard alone is not strong enough for most TVs. The bracket is fixed into the studs behind it where the bracket width allows, or with fixings made for hollow walls and rated for the load. The position of the studs can limit exactly where the screen goes, which is worth knowing before the TV is ordered for a particular spot.
Plasterboard stuck to masonry (dot-and-dab)
Common in newer flats. There is a gap between the board and the wall behind it, so standard plugs pull through the board. Longer fixings that bridge the gap into the masonry, sometimes with spacers so the board is not crushed, give a secure result.
Cables and pipes are often buried in the wall right where a TV looks best, particularly below and above existing sockets. The wall is checked before any drilling, and the bracket position adjusted if needed.
Height, Position and Viewing Comfort
A common mistake is mounting the TV too high. For a sofa, the centre of the screen at roughly seated eye level is usually the most comfortable. Other points worth deciding before the day:
- Where the screen will be watched from, and whether light from a window hits it at certain times.
- Room for a soundbar below, or shelves for other equipment such as a games console or router.
- Whether a media unit is going under the screen. If it is still in its box, it can be put together on the same visit as part of our flat-pack furniture assembly service, so its height is known before the bracket goes up.
Mounting above a fireplace is possible on a sound chimney breast, but it places the screen high, and heat from an open fire or stove can affect some TVs. Check what your TV’s manufacturer says about heat sources before choosing that spot.
Tidying the Cables
A neat finish is usually what people want most after the screen itself. The options depend on the wall and on where the power socket is:
- Cable covers or trunking fixed to the wall surface and painted to match. Quick, tidy and suitable for any wall type.
- Concealing cables inside a hollow wall for aerial and HDMI leads, where the wall construction allows, with a neat plate at each end.
- A new socket behind the screen. A TV’s mains lead should not simply be pushed into the wall cavity. If you want no power lead showing, a socket needs adding behind the TV, which is electrical work handled through our socket and switch installation service.
Old Brackets and Rental Properties
Taking down an old bracket leaves holes, and sometimes a torn patch of plasterboard where heavy plugs were pulled out. Small holes are filled as part of the job; larger damage can be put right through our drywall and wall repair service before the wall is repainted.
If you rent, check your tenancy agreement or ask your landlord before a TV is fixed to the wall. Landlords furnishing a let can combine TV mounting with other work through our landlord property maintenance service, and businesses mounting screens in meeting rooms, receptions or communal areas can schedule it as part of our commercial property maintenance work.
TV Mounting Cost and Booking
The documented minimum call-out is £80 for the first hour. The total depends on the size and weight of the screen, the wall type, the bracket, how the cables are to be finished, and whether an old bracket needs removing first. Any new socket is priced as separate electrical work.
When you get in touch, it helps to send the TV model, the bracket you have (or plan to buy), a photo of the wall and where you would like the screen. If the TV is part of a longer list of jobs, it can be combined into one handyman visit.
Standard visits run 7am–5pm, Monday to Friday. Contact Voltify Contractors to arrange your TV mounting, or check the areas we cover across East and South-East London.
